Car help
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Lot of questions 001
...are you spending a lot of money???..over 10,000???......
....then kilometers on the vehicle matter...if you're spending a few thousand...less so of a factor.....in either case anything over 180,000 or so is getting up there...yea lots of stories about cars that go double that and more...but really...up around that mark they can really become black holes for cash...it seems what is considered low kiometers is changing..used to be 20,000 ks per yr....now I see a lot of dealers showing 3 yr old 80-90000 km cars as pretty typical. Myself I wouold stick to the 20,000 k rule....unless your'e getting a helluva deal for the higher kilometers....I'm partial to the Big 3 for my own reasons..but respect the reliability factor.......and resale value of the Honda and Toyota...especially in the GTA...
N2G
...are you spending a lot of money???..over 10,000???......
....then kilometers on the vehicle matter...if you're spending a few thousand...less so of a factor.....in either case anything over 180,000 or so is getting up there...yea lots of stories about cars that go double that and more...but really...up around that mark they can really become black holes for cash...it seems what is considered low kiometers is changing..used to be 20,000 ks per yr....now I see a lot of dealers showing 3 yr old 80-90000 km cars as pretty typical. Myself I wouold stick to the 20,000 k rule....unless your'e getting a helluva deal for the higher kilometers....I'm partial to the Big 3 for my own reasons..but respect the reliability factor.......and resale value of the Honda and Toyota...especially in the GTA...
N2G
That's a hard question to answer because sometimes it depends on each specific car.
The average mileage a person puts on a car is 20,000 kms a year. The average car also depreciates 50% in 3 years.
For cars with timing belts (typically Japanese) make sure you see a reciept saying it has been replaced along with the water pump at 100,000 kms.
Generally, major repairs start poping up in the 125,000 to 150,000 km range.
Things like struts, shocks, and water pump go around this range. If you are running conventional tires, 100,000 to 125,000 is probably their life. Your second brake job is coming up around this time too. Again this is variable based on driving conditions.
I maintain a 94 Acura Integra and it is just over 100,000 kms. It is in need of major component replacement. New brakes, muffler, fuel line, second set of tires, and the struts are probably weak too.
So... if you know nothing about cars, I'd purchase one around 2 years old with a year or 20,000 kms left.
The average mileage a person puts on a car is 20,000 kms a year. The average car also depreciates 50% in 3 years.
For cars with timing belts (typically Japanese) make sure you see a reciept saying it has been replaced along with the water pump at 100,000 kms.
Generally, major repairs start poping up in the 125,000 to 150,000 km range.
Things like struts, shocks, and water pump go around this range. If you are running conventional tires, 100,000 to 125,000 is probably their life. Your second brake job is coming up around this time too. Again this is variable based on driving conditions.
I maintain a 94 Acura Integra and it is just over 100,000 kms. It is in need of major component replacement. New brakes, muffler, fuel line, second set of tires, and the struts are probably weak too.
So... if you know nothing about cars, I'd purchase one around 2 years old with a year or 20,000 kms left.
Value for Money
I agree with Maximadude. There are often low mileage, low end Japanese cars available for low bucks. These cars will last 10 years without major expense.
It used to be that bigger cars were more durable, because their drivetrains were less stressed at highway speeds. These days, however, particularly with front wheel drive, the issue is stresses on the struts, CV joints, transmissions etc. The lighter the front wheel drive car is, the better it's durability.
It's all a question of what it's worth to you. If you do a lot of highway driving, like I do, you may feel more secure in a larger vehicle. For around town, you can't beat a Corolla-sized Japanese car.
In any case, buy the newest, lowest mileage used car you can for the buck, maintain it well, and replace it before you hit 150K. This is especially true of domestic cars, and yes I drive a domestic. Trouble is the quality control is all over the map on domestics, and once you hit the 150k mark, all hell can break loose. The big 3 are always changing parts suppliers, chasing the lowest cost. The customer ends up paying for this.
I agree with Maximadude. There are often low mileage, low end Japanese cars available for low bucks. These cars will last 10 years without major expense.
It used to be that bigger cars were more durable, because their drivetrains were less stressed at highway speeds. These days, however, particularly with front wheel drive, the issue is stresses on the struts, CV joints, transmissions etc. The lighter the front wheel drive car is, the better it's durability.
It's all a question of what it's worth to you. If you do a lot of highway driving, like I do, you may feel more secure in a larger vehicle. For around town, you can't beat a Corolla-sized Japanese car.
In any case, buy the newest, lowest mileage used car you can for the buck, maintain it well, and replace it before you hit 150K. This is especially true of domestic cars, and yes I drive a domestic. Trouble is the quality control is all over the map on domestics, and once you hit the 150k mark, all hell can break loose. The big 3 are always changing parts suppliers, chasing the lowest cost. The customer ends up paying for this.
Decide on a model you like driving.
Pickup an Autotrader and see what the price range is. That should give you a rough idea how much the selling price is on the market. Another good reference is the Lemon Aid book. Goto Chapters or Indigo and flip through it. Its a handy book to readup on the car your interested. It will list what the book value is, and weather or not its recommended.
If you see a price that sounds too good to be true, most likely the vehicle was in an accident, rebuilt or has a bad history.
An alternative is to get a vehicle that people return to the dealer after the lease is up. It will cost more, but the car itself would still be under warrenty from the dealer.
Pickup an Autotrader and see what the price range is. That should give you a rough idea how much the selling price is on the market. Another good reference is the Lemon Aid book. Goto Chapters or Indigo and flip through it. Its a handy book to readup on the car your interested. It will list what the book value is, and weather or not its recommended.
If you see a price that sounds too good to be true, most likely the vehicle was in an accident, rebuilt or has a bad history.
An alternative is to get a vehicle that people return to the dealer after the lease is up. It will cost more, but the car itself would still be under warrenty from the dealer.
Toyota is changing its cars back to chains instead of rubber timing belts.
If you're looking at a new Corolla the 2008's are out, however, the redesigned 2009 will be released early in 2008. Will look like a smaller Camry. More HP and a CVT.
If you're looking at a new Corolla the 2008's are out, however, the redesigned 2009 will be released early in 2008. Will look like a smaller Camry. More HP and a CVT.
Get a Lemon AID used car guide....If you are looking for transportation on the cheap here are my recommendations
Any GM car with a 3800 series engine will be reliable powertrain wise, the accesiories aren't as reliable but arent expensive to fix.
Also a good value is a 2003 Pontiac Vibe...this vehicle is essentially a Toyota Matrix in Pontiac clothes...very reliable but less expensive then its Toyota counter part.
WHAT EVER YOU BUY GET IT CHECKED BY A MECHANIC YOU TRUST...CAR DEALERS IN GENERAL AREN'T THAT HONEST!
Any GM car with a 3800 series engine will be reliable powertrain wise, the accesiories aren't as reliable but arent expensive to fix.
Also a good value is a 2003 Pontiac Vibe...this vehicle is essentially a Toyota Matrix in Pontiac clothes...very reliable but less expensive then its Toyota counter part.
WHAT EVER YOU BUY GET IT CHECKED BY A MECHANIC YOU TRUST...CAR DEALERS IN GENERAL AREN'T THAT HONEST!
chazz_matzz said:
That is basically true but some had problems with the intake manifold gasket that caused huge repair bills for blown engines. I can't remember the years and models but you should be able find the affected models on the web. I think it was three or maybe four years that are bad.
Domestics aren't all bad, check the Lemon aid guide or Consumer Reports for their rating. My last two domestics both went over 160,000 km with nothing but routine service.
close but no cigar
Your thinking of the 3400 series engine which all need an intake gasket due to coolant and oil mixing...If you check your oil weekly you would catch it before any serious damage...if you catch it it is a $600 repairwpgguy said:
There where problems with the 3800 as well. A friend just had the same problem with his wifes 04 Malibu with a 3100. Now that car is a POS. It's had major problems from day one.
http://www.gmproblems.com/38.htm
http://www.gmproblems.com/38.htm
NEGATIVE.chazz_matzz said:
The 3800 Series II is a PIECE OF SHIT
It features a plastic intake manifold that WILL crack and leave you needing a new engine.
I know, my PIECE OF SHIT GM 3800 Series II in my old PIECE OF SHIT Buick Park Avenue blew its engine after the cheap fucking PIECE OF SHIT plastic intake manifold cracked, fllooded the crank case with coolant and destroyed the big end connecting rod bearings in about 30 seconds.
That was at 122,000 km by the way.
PIECE OF FUCKING USELESS SHIT. I am still bitter about that. I'll never buy another GM again and don't you make the same mistake.
Just google GM plastic intake manifold and see all the hits you get.
GM will do fuck all to help you either. The problem is HUGE.
Exactly.wpgguy said:
The Series II is the one to avoid as it features the dreaded plastic intake manifold.
I believe the years were 96 till 2004 when they came out with the Series III which went back to a metalic intake manifold.
Imagine that...
Fucking GM.
And I used to be a dyed in the wool GM man. Go figure.
I had an early 90's Buick with a 3800 and it was built proof...to bad about the intake manifold problems ;(
Forget the 3800 and get a VIBE
Forget the 3800 and get a VIBE
Can we say that buying used car is the only scenario where Terb members will pay more money for lower mileage
Many people have got great life out of Saturns. However they are very sensitive to maintenance, and because alot of owners and independent mechanics don't know enough about them, dealers and GM can really screw owners over on repair work and parts costs.iamme said:
A key point that is often missed is checking oil level - 90's Saturns do consume oil when they get older - unlike most small cars of the day, Saturn 1.9's were chain driven, and employed no Camshaft Bearings (the steel cams ride directly on the aluminium heads) - therefore it is critical for the oil level to be full at all times (preferably with Synthetic) to avoid huge problems.
buy a muscle car... pre 73.. big block.. 400 or bigger.. i like firebirds and gto's... camaro are nice too... at least the fix is easy ..no fargen computers to mess you up. no plastic intakes .most repairs are easy to do... it will cost you in gas but you will look good in it...convertable is very cool too...
