Okay, I burn a lot of dvd's, at least 300/yr. A couple of years ago, I bought some Maxell dvd's and they did not work on my computer. I have used numerous brands, Verbatim, Maxell, Sony and at least a half dozen others with no problem. I recently bought some Philips and they will not allow me to burn on them. Has anyone else had a problem like this? My computer book says to use -R. I have used both with no problems, but the Philips are -R and I get a rejection and it will not burn. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is there something I can do? As usual, I appreciate your help.
DVD Burning Question
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Taiyo Yuden is still rated #1.
Verbatim was also rated highly.
Those are the only two DVD media I would use.
Here's some info:
www.best-dvd-burning-software-reviews.com/best-blank-dvd-media.asp
Verbatim was also rated highly.
Those are the only two DVD media I would use.
Here's some info:
www.best-dvd-burning-software-reviews.com/best-blank-dvd-media.asp
I have found that some brands work better than others (depends on your burner and its age). The + and - R seems to make less difference, now than it did a few year's back but again it depends on which company made your burner and how old it is. For example, I find TDK discs won't burn in my unit. The discs WoodPeckr mentions are very good. I tend to also stick with the same brands if they work. Give them away or trade them to someone else for another brand.
Do you start the burn and it fails mid way or it won't start at all?
If it starts and fails you probably got a bad batch. A piece of dust lands on the production line and wrecks 10 or 20 disks - makes the dye thinner or thicker or some such before the disks carry the contamination away.
If it refuses to start it could be the firmware on the Philips can't read the media - check their web site for updated firmware. but NOTE that you can brick a burner with a bad firmware flash,
SO
If you think it's just a dye-to-laser mismatch borrow a friend's burner til your DVDs are gone, or test the DVDs in a friend's burner, and if it works, swap your DVDs for an equal number of his /hers / its.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD+R
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD-R
If it starts and fails you probably got a bad batch. A piece of dust lands on the production line and wrecks 10 or 20 disks - makes the dye thinner or thicker or some such before the disks carry the contamination away.
If it refuses to start it could be the firmware on the Philips can't read the media - check their web site for updated firmware. but NOTE that you can brick a burner with a bad firmware flash,
SO
If you think it's just a dye-to-laser mismatch borrow a friend's burner til your DVDs are gone, or test the DVDs in a friend's burner, and if it works, swap your DVDs for an equal number of his /hers / its.
I forget the complete technicalities but the +R are more reliable. Something about if certain areas go bad on the -R the disk's useless but if similar areas go bad on the +R you can still rescue data.Okay, I burn a lot of dvd's, at least 300/yr. A couple of years ago, I bought some Maxell dvd's and they did not work on my computer. I have used numerous brands, Verbatim, Maxell, Sony and at least a half dozen others with no problem. I recently bought some Philips and they will not allow me to burn on them. Has anyone else had a problem like this? My computer book says to use -R. I have used both with no problems, but the Philips are -R and I get a rejection and it will not burn. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is there something I can do? As usual, I appreciate your help.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD+R
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DVD-R
i would just try a different dvd burner. if it works there, it's simply a compatibility issue. I used to use dvd-info to check the dvd's actual disk manufacturer and then checked my burner firmware to see if it contained info on that particular dvd. but it appears to be a pay program now.
lately, i'm not so keen and i just use what works. if the dvd won't write, i give them away.
lately, i'm not so keen and i just use what works. if the dvd won't write, i give them away.
Do you start the burn and it fails mid way or it won't start at all?
It fails as soon as it starts, like everyone else, I think it is a compatiabilty issue. I had a similar problem with Memorex a couple of years ago. On the package I bought it talks about firmware compatabilty and to go to www.dvdhs.com but this website does not exist. It just ticks me off. I bought them at Staples (100 dvds), so hopefully they will take them back.
Glad to hear I am not the only one this has happened to, not that it a good thing, but it is probably good for others to know about this problem.
Thanks everyone.
.
Avoid Memorex!
Memorex must be the worst CD/DVD media out!
We used to blast Memorex media going back to the AudioGalaxy days for all the coasters they produced. Sometimes we thought Memorex was in cohoots with the RIAA to promote their crappy media to discourage folks from burning stuff, since even when it would burn, the media would not last as long as other brands.
Memorex must be the worst CD/DVD media out!
We used to blast Memorex media going back to the AudioGalaxy days for all the coasters they produced. Sometimes we thought Memorex was in cohoots with the RIAA to promote their crappy media to discourage folks from burning stuff, since even when it would burn, the media would not last as long as other brands.
I found out too late that Memorex is crap. I bought them before I joined this board. I have read the discussions, and I should have bought Verbatim or Taiyo, but for what I was doing, and the price I thought I would be okay. Thanks Woody.Memorex must be the worst CD/DVD media out!
We used to blast Memorex media going back to the AudioGalaxy days for all the coasters they produced. Sometimes we thought Memorex was in cohoots with the RIAA to promote their crappy media to discourage folks from burning stuff, since even when it would burn, the media would not last as long as other brands.
It isn't so much that it is Memorex that are bad but the company who makes them. There are 3 big manufacturers of blank media Moser Bayer(India, Think TDK) CMC(Taywan, Many Brands) Ridata(Taywan, also Many Brands) along with some smaller companys like Tayo Yuden(the Best) Maxell when they make thier own are also excellent unfortunatly they have swiched over to CMC disks which are terible though they have the ability to make high quality disks as well as Verbatim does use them from time to time and stricktly moniters their product. I bet if you check your disks with something like DVDInfo you will find they are made by CMC or even worse unlabled but if they are memorex most likely CMC. For quality disks use Tayo Yuden, Verbatim and Ridata. If you are near a Canada Computers outlet they do carry blank Silver laqure Tayo Yuden as well as white Inkjet Printables, JVC Brand in DVD -R as well as both Ridata and Verbatim.
The difference between the 2, DVD -R & DVD +R is minimal as there is a tiny bit of Meta Info pre recorded on the -R disk telling your player and burner what they are where as with the +R disks this data is not present and allows you to bitset or Set the Book Type to DVD ROM for greater compatability with older players provided your burner is able to do this not all are. Most Likely the reason your disks are failing like they are is that they are new highspeed disks that your burner doesn't recognise or support I would think it is time for an upgrade of your burner or atleast the firmware for it providing the company still supports the model. For example NEC drives have a max support of 3 years and most at about 2 years before they stop making Firmware updates.
The difference between the 2, DVD -R & DVD +R is minimal as there is a tiny bit of Meta Info pre recorded on the -R disk telling your player and burner what they are where as with the +R disks this data is not present and allows you to bitset or Set the Book Type to DVD ROM for greater compatability with older players provided your burner is able to do this not all are. Most Likely the reason your disks are failing like they are is that they are new highspeed disks that your burner doesn't recognise or support I would think it is time for an upgrade of your burner or atleast the firmware for it providing the company still supports the model. For example NEC drives have a max support of 3 years and most at about 2 years before they stop making Firmware updates.
CMC Magnetics usually makes Philips media, as well as the latest Memorex disks. They were notorious some time ago for lack of quality. However, they have much improved. I had similar issues with older LG burners and switched to Liteon (another Philips partner) and had much, much greater success. However, my latest LG burners with CMC/Philips work extremely well, with the only three coasters from my latest spinlde of 100 disks resulting from my computer software issues. On re-start, the problems went away, and that is how I suspect that it was a software issue.Do you start the burn and it fails mid way or it won't start at all?
It fails as soon as it starts, like everyone else, I think it is a compatiabilty issue. I had a similar problem with Memorex a couple of years ago. On the package I bought it talks about firmware compatabilty and to go to www.dvdhs.com but this website does not exist. It just ticks me off. I bought them at Staples (100 dvds), so hopefully they will take them back.
Glad to hear I am not the only one this has happened to, not that it a good thing, but it is probably good for others to know about this problem.
Thanks everyone.
.
As was mentoned earlier, check your firmware update status and/or try a different burner. For Philips, I would humbly suggest Liteon burners.
Ridata have always been good to me, especilaly blu-ray disks more recently!It isn't so much that it is Memorex that are bad but the company who makes them. There are 3 big manufacturers of blank media Moser Bayer(India, Think TDK) CMC(Taywan, Many Brands) Ridata(Taywan, also Many Brands) along with some smaller companys like Tayo Yuden(the Best) Maxell when they make thier own are also excellent unfortunatly they have swiched over to CMC disks which are terible though they have the ability to make high quality disks as well as Verbatim does use them from time to time and stricktly moniters their product. I bet if you check your disks with something like DVDInfo you will find they are made by CMC or even worse unlabled but if they are memorex most likely CMC. For quality disks use Tayo Yuden, Verbatim and Ridata. If you are near a Canada Computers outlet they do carry blank Silver laqure Tayo Yuden as well as white Inkjet Printables, JVC Brand in DVD -R as well as both Ridata and Verbatim.
The difference between the 2, DVD -R & DVD +R is minimal as there is a tiny bit of Meta Info pre recorded on the -R disk telling your player and burner what they are where as with the +R disks this data is not present and allows you to bitset or Set the Book Type to DVD ROM for greater compatability with older players provided your burner is able to do this not all are. Most Likely the reason your disks are failing like they are is that they are new highspeed disks that your burner doesn't recognise or support I would think it is time for an upgrade of your burner or atleast the firmware for it providing the company still supports the model. For example NEC drives have a max support of 3 years and most at about 2 years before they stop making Firmware updates.
Ah, the good old days of Princo (yuk!).Memorex must be the worst CD/DVD media out!
We used to blast Memorex media going back to the AudioGalaxy days for all the coasters they produced. Sometimes we thought Memorex was in cohoots with the RIAA to promote their crappy media to discourage folks from burning stuff, since even when it would burn, the media would not last as long as other brands.
Do you burn on a DVD recorder or on your computer DVD burner? 300 a year seems like a lot. Why so many?Okay, I burn a lot of dvd's, at least 300/yr.
I am not as up to date with the DVD Disks as I used to be as I have switched almost exclusivly over to BLU-RAY allot may have changed ..... a great site for uptodated info is ..... http://forums.afterdawn.com/
update the firmware of your burner and it should solve the problem.
it's an easy process, just check the support page of the manufacturer of your burner for updated firmware
you can try something like this to test and find out which version firmware you have http://www.cdspeed2000.com/
30 day free trial.
also most burning software will give you the model number and firmware version, just check in the tools menu
it's an easy process, just check the support page of the manufacturer of your burner for updated firmware
you can try something like this to test and find out which version firmware you have http://www.cdspeed2000.com/
30 day free trial.
also most burning software will give you the model number and firmware version, just check in the tools menu
Thanks for all your help guys. I downlaoded cd speed and I found out I had a Lite-On DVDRW SOHW1633S burner. I went to Lite On's site and downloaded some update checker and it said there were no updates. Anyway, I kept looking and trying different searches until I found this siteupdate the firmware of your burner and it should solve the problem.
it's an easy process, just check the support page of the manufacturer of your burner for updated firmware
you can try something like this to test and find out which version firmware you have http://www.cdspeed2000.com/
30 day free trial.
also most burning software will give you the model number and firmware version, just check in the tools menu
http://www.americal.com/pg/dvd-burner-compat.html
It emailed me a link to the update and now everything works.
This site has all types, brands, etc of updates.
Again, thanks to all.
An alternative would be to buy yourself a large capacity Hard Disk Drive (or two, for backup) instead.
The last 2 Terabyte HD I bought cost me $80 (plus $40 for a "shell"). That should hold the equivalent of about 500 DVDs (at 4Gig each). If you're paying 50c for each DVD, then the Hard Drive would be cheaper and more convenient.
The failure rates (effective lifespan) of the Hard Drive versus the DVDs remain an open question: both will fail long before you want them to.
The last 2 Terabyte HD I bought cost me $80 (plus $40 for a "shell"). That should hold the equivalent of about 500 DVDs (at 4Gig each). If you're paying 50c for each DVD, then the Hard Drive would be cheaper and more convenient.
The failure rates (effective lifespan) of the Hard Drive versus the DVDs remain an open question: both will fail long before you want them to.
how would one save a movie full version uncompressed on a hardrive? I assume as an image. What software do you recommend? Can Ashampoo do it? That is an interesting proposal. Will you lose any pic quality if you compress the original Dvd file/folder? To save even more space.
thx.
thx.
