Off Topic Construction question.....

[Sasha Jones]

I have been doing some renovations to my basement and I have just a few things left to do, one of them is to build a closet.
This is my problem...........

Lengthwise along the center of my basement there is a wall of studs which are supported by a row of cinder blocks underneath.
In order to build the closet where I want it I need to cut a hole in the drywall to allow for the doors and remove some of the studs, reenforce with a header, etc.

What I am not sure of is how to get rid of the cinder blocks where I will be making the opening for the closet doors. The only thing I can think of would be a sledgehammer!

The blocks are mortared to the floor by the way.
Any suggestions?

 

[CyberGoth]

use common sense.

small shaped charges made from diesel fuel and high nitrogen fertiliser???

JOKING!.

be very careful you dont bring the entire structure down on your pretty little skull... find a construction guy, show him the site, and ask him questions.

 

[Gilbey]

Very carefull

what you do is to sneak a blunt penknife
down to the closet. Then when everyone in the place is asleep, you tip toe quietly down there and spend a few hours each night and rub the penknife slowly so to not make any noise.

with any luck you should be able to break through in the spring and make a nice tunnel for yourself...

No strike that, sorry wrong instructions ..these are for making an escape...

I really dont know any other way.

never mind , and you didnt hear this from me


good luck

 

[james t kirk]

check you pm for more

 

[spartan5782]

It does sound like a support wall that's carrying weight from the upper floor and possibly all the way to the roof? Sounds like you already removed the studs and hopefully the header can transfer the weight...but to what? You may need to double (triple) the studs carrying the header??

Non load bearing walls the homeowner can play with...but load bearing....you should get a licensed pro.

You can cut the sides of the block clean with a masonry blade in a sawzall, and yes a sledge would do fine (hammer and chisel the residue). Floor leveler to smooth the pits (unless chuncks come up, then cement work) and what ever floor covering you are going with.

Good Luck!! (but do have a pro inspect)

 

[ddawger]

Hi Sasha, if you continue to have trouble with this, let me know, I am a building inspector and therefore could make several suggestions but it would be best to see the situation, before making too many comments. removing cinderblocks supporting a wall could be an issue in the long term but probably not in the immediate future. A steel angle maybe required to support the opening depending on the number of blocks being removed and what the wall is supporting. See you later maybe

 

[Zam]

You seem to be on the right track.
Spartan has the best suggestion by using a saw. A masonry saw not a sawzall that you can rent and make a clean cut. But be ready for lots of noise and dust. Or you can rent a Hilti jack hammer. Seriously. Its a hand held electric jack hammer. Not one like they use for asphalt road work. But it will leave you with a jagged edge.
That can be fixed by cutting the opening a little bigger and framing the opening appropriately. ie. header and doubling even tripling up the studs supporting the header as mentioned by spartan.
Of course you want to put up temporary supports before you make any cuts and remove any studs.
Along the floor you may have to chisel the mortar away carefully. Asuming you have a concrete floor and not intending to put down new flooring.

 

[gar]

be careful

ddawger is absolutely correct. It's probably a support wall which means you need a lintel--it's size is dependent on the load and opening size.
Since the opening will eventually be finished, you don't have to worry about a clean edge along the cinderblock. You can use a sledgehammer--the very first cinderblock is the hardest to remove. Once you remove one it becomes easier to remove the others. Remember that there are hollow spots in the block so try to break this area first--it's alittle easier to break.

good luck

 

[Romeo]

Me too

I'm considering turning one or two basement rooms into some place liveable. How much would that cost? How much extra is a shower?

The place is in Hamilton.

 

[anon1]

People... I'm not a contractor or anything but it seems to me that the cinder blocks being on the floor is an indication of something important. If it's a load bearing wall, why is the wall made up of regular studs with a cinderblock base?
Reason dictates that it's because the load needs to be spread out on the floor of the basement. To me it means that the floor is of insufficeint strength to use a few simple jack posts. That would mean the gravel base is too shallow and/or the concrete is not thick enough or that the ground underneath is not stable.

 

[CyberGoth]

translation.

dont do it unless you want a piece of the building falling on your head...

or hire a real construction contractor [ie a licensed professional] to do it for you.

it would be embarassing if sasha accidentally destroyed her own house doing something to improve it.

 

[remyxo]

Reno input

Sasha,

What you describe does indeed sound like it is a supporting wall of some kind, which as some members have pointed out, should not be simply "removed", without first assessing whether or not it does support the floor above.

If it is a supporting wall, you could still place your closet in the area you desire, but you would need to put a support post on each end of the closet (which you can hide inside the new closet walls), in order to ensure there is still support.

A beam (2x8's / 2 x10's / steel or a "paralam") can then span the distance you are removing and rest on each of these posts, which will provide you with the continued suppport of the floor above, while still allowing you to build the closet area.

If you have a pic of the area, or measurements, I will gladly look at them for you and provide you with some alternatives and/or specifications, to complete the project.

Yes....I am a contractor, with an engineering background and I have done similar modifications many times, with no problems.

The costs are dependant on the specific issues for each situation, so I can't offer you more info, without further information.

I hope this helps...and I doubt you're a bitch

Cheers

remy
remyvsop@hotmail.com

 

[Sasha Jones]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I will contact a few of you privately to discuss further if you don't mind.

And just to add, I do things myself, unless it involes plumbing or electrical. I have no patience dealing with contractors and such, when I want it done I will do it! I have no problems working with my hands and doing heavy work such as this. I have always been quite technically inclined that way.

I DO know that this is a load bearing wall, and I DO know better than to touch it before I know exactly what is safe to do with it. I'm not retarded.

What I don't really know is a lot of the technical terms being used.
If I have a basic diagram or directions and the tools I can build almost anything!

I have 2 options for a door way into the closet but I don't yet know what the demensions of the 1st option would be, I have to go to home depot and check out the size of the doors first. THe second option I only want to use if it is not safe to make a large enough opening for the first option (which would be narrow double doors) the second option would be to use one standard 32" door.

Heh, I might even be better than the guys at this! I can do it all without even breaking a nail..... usually!

 

[remyxo]

Good point...

I did forget about answering how to remove the cinder-block and agree with Shiek that using a gas-powered concrete saw, with a diamond blade is an undesirable choice.

The dust you will get (even with water running on the blade as you cut) will be extremely messy and hard to clean up. It will also (quite likely) set off every smoke detector in your home, unless you disable them first.

A sledge hammer will easily break cinder-block (they are hollow in 2 spots), with a couple of good strokes. Once you have broken the first block, the rest will be quite easy to break and there is MUCH less dust and mess this way, for a small demolition.

If the blocks are embedded in mortar (in the floor) you will need to break that area as well and then re-concrete the floor afterwards, in order to have a smooth base.

Good input Shiek....for "a suit"...lol

btw....it wasn't easy to stay away from the cheap laughs in this post, re: "cinder" blocks and strokes, but I managed ...lol

 

[remyxo]

Re: Me too

Sorry Romeo....I wasn't ignoring your question

There are so many variables in this question, it makes it very difficult to answer, but I can tell you that (on average) most basement renovations can be "guess-timated" using a square footage multiplied by between $10.00 (low-end/very very basic i.e.- no washroom/steel studs/drywalled and low end electrical and carpet) to $30.00 (high-end-with washroom with shower and the best fittings/lighting carpet/drop-ceiling etc.

I wish I could give you a more specific answer, but I hope that gives you an idea.

Cheers

remy

I'm considering turning one or two basement rooms into some place liveable. How much would that cost? How much extra is a shower?

The place is in Hamilton.

 

[remyxo]

Ack....you're not making it easy to ignore that one.....lol

*lol* I've laid more Cinder blocks than I care to count

 

[remyxo]

lol...knowledge required to be a plumber: Shit flows downhill...paydays are on Friday...just an old joke guys (some might say like me)...no offense to you plumbers out there

The only other thing you may want to be careful of Sasha, is that if you do this work yourself and there are any problems with it (and I'm not trying to fear monger here), your insurance will not cover it, if they know it was not done by a licensed contractor.

Cutting out the area you need and inserting a beam to span the distance would be a small and quick job for a contractor and then it would be his/their insurance that would pay in the event of any problems....just my 2 cents

And just to add, I do things myself, unless it involes plumbing or electrical. I have no patience dealing with contractors and such, when I want it done I will do it!