Plumbing (Toilet) Problem...
- Thread starter Keebler Elf
- Start date
ballcock
Like I said B4 im a service plumber ,, need to know details,, so I can pin it ,, more than likely changing the ballcock will fix it ,, sometimes if you had a diturbance in the water main to the house eg city working on the line , pieces of dirt get disloged and since the crapper gets used during the shutdown the toilet is the first fixture to receive water thus gets cloged in the cock(value) the part the ball gets screw into ,, I have seen sometimes that the ball does not drop during flushing and this will make water enter slow ,, make sure the ball has full movement , also DO NOT USE PUCKS IN THE TANK,,the clorine in them makes the flapper hard and distorted and will make the toilet run and will not seal ,, and you will have to replace it ,,also this contamated water can reverse into you water supply if there is a pressure inturption ,, and the rocking tolet ,, not good ,, could be a broken tolet flange ,, an if you let it rock the seal will let go and you got a leak,, when its installed that the first thing I look for is a rocker tolet and if so you got to wedge it with someting that will not rot eg single ,, than caulk it in,,rocking toilets can break also so fix it ,,, this is where we make most of our $$$$$ ,, and usually and easy fix ,other than clog drains ,, if you have any problems after this pm me and give me details I can help you fi x it , no charge Bart
Like I said B4 im a service plumber ,, need to know details,, so I can pin it ,, more than likely changing the ballcock will fix it ,, sometimes if you had a diturbance in the water main to the house eg city working on the line , pieces of dirt get disloged and since the crapper gets used during the shutdown the toilet is the first fixture to receive water thus gets cloged in the cock(value) the part the ball gets screw into ,, I have seen sometimes that the ball does not drop during flushing and this will make water enter slow ,, make sure the ball has full movement , also DO NOT USE PUCKS IN THE TANK,,the clorine in them makes the flapper hard and distorted and will make the toilet run and will not seal ,, and you will have to replace it ,,also this contamated water can reverse into you water supply if there is a pressure inturption ,, and the rocking tolet ,, not good ,, could be a broken tolet flange ,, an if you let it rock the seal will let go and you got a leak,, when its installed that the first thing I look for is a rocker tolet and if so you got to wedge it with someting that will not rot eg single ,, than caulk it in,,rocking toilets can break also so fix it ,,, this is where we make most of our $$$$$ ,, and usually and easy fix ,other than clog drains ,, if you have any problems after this pm me and give me details I can help you fi x it , no charge Bart
??? Keebler said fill, not drain.Moraff said:
As you flush the toilet, the tank water level drops, and the float drops with the draining water. Once the float drops below a couple of degrees, it should open the valve, and the water should start to rush in. If the water doesn't rush in as Keebler has eluded to, I would say there is a blockage in the supply tube or valve, otherwise it would be the same pressure as the bathroom tap.Moraff said:
So your theory that there is a hole in the float, doesn't float. If there was a hole, the float would get water logged and not rise to the top to shut the valve, making the toilet constantly run. So you should have said the other possibilty is that the float isn't dropping, therefore not opening the valve enough and causing a slow refill.
Gotta love it
Nothing like a plumbing discussion to bring a bunch of guys together!
Reading the posts on thread gives me an image of all of us standing around watching Keebler trying to fix his toilette with beers in our hands, and arguing over who's idea is the right one.
Nothing like a plumbing discussion to bring a bunch of guys together!
Reading the posts on thread gives me an image of all of us standing around watching Keebler trying to fix his toilette with beers in our hands, and arguing over who's idea is the right one.
Obviously the flow of water into the tank is restricted from what I've garnered here. Follow bartbarty's advise and stop the rocking before the toilet itself needs to be replaced.
Worse comes to worse you can pick up a new toilet for about 90 bucks from Rona and up.
Worse comes to worse you can pick up a new toilet for about 90 bucks from Rona and up.
I sure as hell hope that Keebler has made is way to Home Depot by now and bought a new ball cock and better yet, actually installed it to end this debate.
I've bought a kit with all new fittings for inside the tank. I've also bought two new wax gaskets for the bowl (which, according to Holmes, is better to use two than one).
Now I just have to get around to installing it all.
p.s. someone mentioned using plumber's putty on the bottom of the bowl to level it with the tile floor. Is that a good/bad idea?
Now I just have to get around to installing it all.
p.s. someone mentioned using plumber's putty on the bottom of the bowl to level it with the tile floor. Is that a good/bad idea?
A rocking toilet is a bad thing for sure. How you stabilize it is a choice of options; I'd go for shims (rot-resistant) at three points around the base, then caulk, either w/ plumber's putty which hardens, or bathroom-grade silicone which doesn't. But if you're taking the toilet right off the floor and can keep from using it long enough for the stuff to harden, you could get away with just bedding it in the plumber's putty.
If you're taking the bowl off the floor already DON'T use something like plumber's putty to level it. Do it right the first time then never worry about it again.
Use shims, plywood, or another structural item to stop the tank from rocking. By structural I mean something that can handle the weight of a 200 lb human, plus the weight of the toilet, plus all the water in it. Something that can handle 300 lbs should suffice. BTW: whatever you use shouldn't be too susceptible to water damage cuz hopefully you wash the floor at some point. Cedar shims should be fine.
After you're done leveling and stabilizing the toilet, re-caulk it using silicone. USE gloves because I recently found out that the residue stays on your fingers for days even after washing (couldn't figure out why my eyes were burning after removing and replacing my contact lens' until I gasp read the tube lol).
Use shims, plywood, or another structural item to stop the tank from rocking. By structural I mean something that can handle the weight of a 200 lb human, plus the weight of the toilet, plus all the water in it. Something that can handle 300 lbs should suffice. BTW: whatever you use shouldn't be too susceptible to water damage cuz hopefully you wash the floor at some point. Cedar shims should be fine.
After you're done leveling and stabilizing the toilet, re-caulk it using silicone. USE gloves because I recently found out that the residue stays on your fingers for days even after washing (couldn't figure out why my eyes were burning after removing and replacing my contact lens' until I gasp read the tube lol).
Hmmm, the bowl was never caulked to begin with. Maybe that has a part to play in why it's rocking...
Well, the caulking won't prevent the rocking. The caulking makes it look pretty as well as keep any water out from under the bowl. If water got to the subfloor you could have some water damage under there, that would cause the rocking. In fact, just thinking outloud, if it's rocking, you've probably broken the seal to the waste pipe, and water is causing MORE problems as time goes by. Has the rocking gotten worse over time?Keebler Elf said:
I hate to say it but you might need to repair the subfloor before you replace the toilet. Don't freak out tho cuz it could just be loose but you never know until you remove the toilet.
BTW: have you ever checked the mounting bolts (to the floor) to see if they are tight?
O boy
lifting the toilet can be scary if it rocks ,,, the flange can be broken,, or if its old the lead flange can be rotten ,, I like using the spunge seals cause if it rocks it will keep its seal , sometimes I will cut a wax seal in half and use a combo thin wax and the spunge ,, I also like the wax with the funell molded into it call cantleak ,, if you have a problem with the flange or floor and you don't want to fix it right away and you can get to underside the floor basement use long bolts and washer under the floor to secure it through the bowl,,this is usualy a good fix till you want to tackle the job when your ready for it ,, Bart
lifting the toilet can be scary if it rocks ,,, the flange can be broken,, or if its old the lead flange can be rotten ,, I like using the spunge seals cause if it rocks it will keep its seal , sometimes I will cut a wax seal in half and use a combo thin wax and the spunge ,, I also like the wax with the funell molded into it call cantleak ,, if you have a problem with the flange or floor and you don't want to fix it right away and you can get to underside the floor basement use long bolts and washer under the floor to secure it through the bowl,,this is usualy a good fix till you want to tackle the job when your ready for it ,, Bart
??
I was wondering that myself yesterday , I had a service call to fix a running toilet ,and all I had to do was change the flapper and adjust the level in tank,,not bad for $75 plus parts and the chic was smoking hot , was thinking of a trade off but ymmv so I'll take the cashola Bart
I was wondering that myself yesterday , I had a service call to fix a running toilet ,and all I had to do was change the flapper and adjust the level in tank,,not bad for $75 plus parts and the chic was smoking hot , was thinking of a trade off but ymmv so I'll take the cashola
Bart
No, not yet.
I think Im going to wait for it to warm up some more so I can take the toilet outside and wash it down.
I think Im going to wait for it to warm up some more so I can take the toilet outside and wash it down.
LOL ok, I have to ask.....why take it outside? I mean, you've got a source of water handy, a drain or two, and (I assume) it is climate controlled.....
