I debated about whether anyone would care to hear this, but it was such a significant event in my life that I thought I would share it for the few who might be interested.
I took my second trip to Russia in June 2004, flying into Moscow for a couple days, then continuing on to St Petersburg. I went alone, armed with 10 words of Russian, a pocket guide, a list of things to see, a shorter list of people to contact, a longer list of things to avoid and a naive curiosity to see more of "the evil empire".
Moscow is much like New York City. Big, bustling, traffic, pedestrians, restaurants, cafes, shopping and neon. Although there is as much history and culture as you care to find, once you see Red Square and the Kremlin, you can say you saw Moscow. I remember walking the streets after dinner that first night and feeling completely safe in spite of the fact that I couldnt read most signs or understand any conversations.
I went into one of the more infamous clubs off Tverskaya, populated by westerners and the working girls who make a living off them. Girls would clot in small groups on one side of the bar, the guys lined up on the other nursing a beer and pretending not to be interested. Occasionally a couple girls would weave through the gauntlet, hoping for eye contact or an invitation for a drink. They seemed to recognize the weak and vulnerable.
I was chatting with a businessman from Switzerland who was on assignment for 6 months. Seems this was his second home so he pointed out "who to do" and "who to avoid" amongst the girls, and gave me the usual tips on how to avoid trouble. Seems the thrill of meeting an American has long since worn off for these girls, most of them speak some English, and they much prefer euros to dollars. Going rate was E300 for the night, E250 if you knew how to bargain.
I took a train up to St Petersburg the next afternoon. Russian railway stations are a challenge. No signs in English, no one speaks English, so unless you have assistance, you end up playing a game of charades for a bewildered crowd. I was always pretty good at it fortunately.
Russian trains are actually very good forms of tranportation. Meticulously on time, clean, safe, comfortable and CHEAP even for a 4-person compartment. The day ride took 6 hours, and it gave you a chance to pass through small towns to see the real Russia. Yes, its backward and impoverished outside of the tourist areas, but you get a glimpse of a piece of history largely unchanged for the last 50 years.
(continued)
I took my second trip to Russia in June 2004, flying into Moscow for a couple days, then continuing on to St Petersburg. I went alone, armed with 10 words of Russian, a pocket guide, a list of things to see, a shorter list of people to contact, a longer list of things to avoid and a naive curiosity to see more of "the evil empire".
Moscow is much like New York City. Big, bustling, traffic, pedestrians, restaurants, cafes, shopping and neon. Although there is as much history and culture as you care to find, once you see Red Square and the Kremlin, you can say you saw Moscow. I remember walking the streets after dinner that first night and feeling completely safe in spite of the fact that I couldnt read most signs or understand any conversations.
I went into one of the more infamous clubs off Tverskaya, populated by westerners and the working girls who make a living off them. Girls would clot in small groups on one side of the bar, the guys lined up on the other nursing a beer and pretending not to be interested. Occasionally a couple girls would weave through the gauntlet, hoping for eye contact or an invitation for a drink. They seemed to recognize the weak and vulnerable.
I was chatting with a businessman from Switzerland who was on assignment for 6 months. Seems this was his second home so he pointed out "who to do" and "who to avoid" amongst the girls, and gave me the usual tips on how to avoid trouble. Seems the thrill of meeting an American has long since worn off for these girls, most of them speak some English, and they much prefer euros to dollars. Going rate was E300 for the night, E250 if you knew how to bargain.
I took a train up to St Petersburg the next afternoon. Russian railway stations are a challenge. No signs in English, no one speaks English, so unless you have assistance, you end up playing a game of charades for a bewildered crowd. I was always pretty good at it fortunately.
Russian trains are actually very good forms of tranportation. Meticulously on time, clean, safe, comfortable and CHEAP even for a 4-person compartment. The day ride took 6 hours, and it gave you a chance to pass through small towns to see the real Russia. Yes, its backward and impoverished outside of the tourist areas, but you get a glimpse of a piece of history largely unchanged for the last 50 years.
(continued)
