just curious to know if anyone on the board has experience with these cool little cars. i've always wanted one, but they're getting really old now. i'm wondering if they're worth the trouble. you could probably get a used miata for the same price, not as cool though.
TR6s
- Thread starter t_dot
- Start date
Ahhhhh... British sports cars... If you've ever owned one, you wouldn't be asking this question.
If you are not already aware... a company known as "Lucas" made the electrical systems for many British cars. "Lucas" is affectionately known as "The Price of Darkness" (remember, the headlights are part of the electrical system.)
Old British sports car owner's joke - Q: Why do the British drink warm beer? A: Their refridgerators are made by Lucas.
Older sports cars are notoriously difficult to get parts for. Is it "worth the trouble"? Only you can answer that. I can only suggest that you are likely to have your fair share of trouble. You have to really really want this for it to be "worth it".
If you want something to tinker with, go for it. If you want something to drive, go get a Miata, or better yet, a Honda S2000.
If you are not already aware... a company known as "Lucas" made the electrical systems for many British cars. "Lucas" is affectionately known as "The Price of Darkness" (remember, the headlights are part of the electrical system.)
Old British sports car owner's joke - Q: Why do the British drink warm beer? A: Their refridgerators are made by Lucas.
Older sports cars are notoriously difficult to get parts for. Is it "worth the trouble"? Only you can answer that. I can only suggest that you are likely to have your fair share of trouble. You have to really really want this for it to be "worth it".
If you want something to tinker with, go for it. If you want something to drive, go get a Miata, or better yet, a Honda S2000.
TR6
If it's not your only vehicle, why not? The TR6 was the best of the Triumph line, much better than the replacement TR7 and TR8.
They are simple rear-wheel drive cars. You won't be able to get parts over the counter so it's more of a hobby car. The Fiat Spyder is probably more reliable. I would bet most parts for the
Triumph are available - in England! If it breaks, you park it until the parts arrive from over 'ome.
You should be able to find rust-free specimens of either car, but I wouldn't pay any more than $3500 for one, and it may be hard to find one at a reasonable price.
The Miata is a "chicks car", too small for most males and the performance is nothing to write home about. Parts are readily available though.
If it's not your only vehicle, why not? The TR6 was the best of the Triumph line, much better than the replacement TR7 and TR8.
They are simple rear-wheel drive cars. You won't be able to get parts over the counter so it's more of a hobby car. The Fiat Spyder is probably more reliable. I would bet most parts for the
Triumph are available - in England! If it breaks, you park it until the parts arrive from over 'ome.
You should be able to find rust-free specimens of either car, but I wouldn't pay any more than $3500 for one, and it may be hard to find one at a reasonable price.
The Miata is a "chicks car", too small for most males and the performance is nothing to write home about. Parts are readily available though.
1976 Triumph TR6 Convertible - British Racing Green also had a 1977 Trumph TR7 Convertible with a hard shell, in Red. Both cars were the fastest cars I ever drove, ( I now own a 2004 Dodge Ram SRT-10).
Only two problems, unless you were mechanicaly inclined they the Triumph would put you in the poor house. The other problem was that it was hard to get parts in Canada. I often had to import from British Leyland, and have them ship parts by cargo, which really cranked up the price.
Only two problems, unless you were mechanicaly inclined they the Triumph would put you in the poor house. The other problem was that it was hard to get parts in Canada. I often had to import from British Leyland, and have them ship parts by cargo, which really cranked up the price.
tinkering with cars is fun, but not if you have to do it all the time. i've heard about the electrical woes of the brittish cars, but i didn't know it was so bad. it's not worth it for the little top-down season we have up here.
as for the miata. poor thing, they designed it too cute. if you've driven one you wouldn't say it's a chick's car. the handling on the one i owned was 10 years ahead of it's time. and the breaks were by far the best of any road car i have ever driven. untill this year they lacked power though. this new turbo one looks interesting, but how can you beet the S2000? 240 bhp from a 2000cc 4 cil. nice work honda.
as for the miata. poor thing, they designed it too cute. if you've driven one you wouldn't say it's a chick's car. the handling on the one i owned was 10 years ahead of it's time. and the breaks were by far the best of any road car i have ever driven. untill this year they lacked power though. this new turbo one looks interesting, but how can you beet the S2000? 240 bhp from a 2000cc 4 cil. nice work honda.
Hey T-Dot, if you're looking for a summer car and like the hands on aspect of an older vehicle you could do what I'm planning for my next winter's project:
Build a replica 1065 cobra. The one I will be building is based on a 1987 - 95 5 litre mustang.
Other than the fact that it will look damn good complete,perform lke a thorobred but the parts will be available at your local ford dealer.
If you want more info pm me.....
Build a replica 1065 cobra. The one I will be building is based on a 1987 - 95 5 litre mustang.
Other than the fact that it will look damn good complete,perform lke a thorobred but the parts will be available at your local ford dealer.
If you want more info pm me.....
Re: TR6
HO HO HO HA HA HA, my stiches.
You will be lucky to find a basket case TR6 for that kind of dough.
These cars have really appreciated in the last decade or so.
A really clean, mint TR6 will set you back over 20 grand now.
3500 is a parts car.
You can probably find a very nice TR6 for 12 to 15 grand. But when you go to look at them, they will still need work, I assure you.
All that aside, the TR6 is a great car, and is actually fairly reliable once you get it up to snuff and keep it there.
Parts are plentiful and CHEAP.
Locally available over the counter at Peninsula in Oakville on the South Service road right beside all of the Budd's. Peninsula has a huge selection of Triumph parts and most are in stock. One thing, don't bother to order anything through these guys, they will always forget to fill your order.
There are also several smaller Triumph Parts suppliers in Ontario iwth readily available parts.
A better option is the Roadster Factory in Armagh Pensylvania. The Roadster Factor is owned by one Charles Runyan who is a Triumph NUT.
Charles has made selling Triumph parts his life and has single handedly re-introduced scores of previously unavaiable Triumph parts. Everything from Authentic overdrive switches to orginal styled green rad hoses.
Here's the link.
http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/
I would recommend the Roadster Factory over anywhere else actually. You can even go so far as to buy a complete TR6 body shell in a crate from these guys. These are brand new body shells made in Britain by British Motor Heritage from the original Leyland tooling. They are not aftermarket. And they still do production runs every year. BMH also makes MGB body shells, and MG midget, and Healy sprite I believe.
As far as Triumph goes, the Triumph to have is actually the TR250 (or the TR5 in Britain).
It has the body of the TR4A (designed by Micholetti of Italy) and the same 2.5 litre straight six that the TR6 has.
The TR6 was actually designed by Karmen of West Germany believe it or not, but is based on the platform of the TR4A. The TR6 was manufactured from 68 till 76 with approximately 88,000 units produced in Coventry England.
The TR6 comes in two distinct varities. The so called chrome bumper (from 68 to 73) and the so called rubber bumper over-riders (from 74 to 76)
The engine in both cases is the 2.5 straight six with dual stromberg CD (Constant Depression) carbs. The earlier model has about 125 horsepower I believe stock and the later engine about 105 horsepower (detuned by reducing the compression and adding a less radical cam shaft.
The later engine is quite different from the earlier with a different head, manifolds, block, everything.
The later transmsision is also diffferent as is the interiors to the cars.
Your TR6 of choice is without a doubt (in my eyes) the 75.
It has a superior interior, better transmission, doesn't have an air pump (the 76 has an air pump to be avoided), and it has the instrumentation of the 76.
The engine can be easily modified to put out over 160 horsepower through the addition of a fast road 83 cam shaft available from Triumph Tune in England, and increasing the compression of the engine to 10:1 (stock is 7,75:1) by milling 180 thou (yes, that's right) from the head and porting and polishing.
I would stick to the stock exhaust system, and carbs for that matter. You can go and buy yourself a set of triple webers, but it's really quite over done at that point.
The transmission came with an optional electric overdrive by Laycock which should have been standard equipment. You definitely want to get one with overdrive.
This is one part that can not be bought currently.
$3,500 for a rust free TR6.clipper said:
HO HO HO HA HA HA, my stiches.
You will be lucky to find a basket case TR6 for that kind of dough.
These cars have really appreciated in the last decade or so.
A really clean, mint TR6 will set you back over 20 grand now.
3500 is a parts car.
You can probably find a very nice TR6 for 12 to 15 grand. But when you go to look at them, they will still need work, I assure you.
All that aside, the TR6 is a great car, and is actually fairly reliable once you get it up to snuff and keep it there.
Parts are plentiful and CHEAP.
Locally available over the counter at Peninsula in Oakville on the South Service road right beside all of the Budd's. Peninsula has a huge selection of Triumph parts and most are in stock. One thing, don't bother to order anything through these guys, they will always forget to fill your order.
There are also several smaller Triumph Parts suppliers in Ontario iwth readily available parts.
A better option is the Roadster Factory in Armagh Pensylvania. The Roadster Factor is owned by one Charles Runyan who is a Triumph NUT.
Charles has made selling Triumph parts his life and has single handedly re-introduced scores of previously unavaiable Triumph parts. Everything from Authentic overdrive switches to orginal styled green rad hoses.
Here's the link.
http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/
I would recommend the Roadster Factory over anywhere else actually. You can even go so far as to buy a complete TR6 body shell in a crate from these guys. These are brand new body shells made in Britain by British Motor Heritage from the original Leyland tooling. They are not aftermarket. And they still do production runs every year. BMH also makes MGB body shells, and MG midget, and Healy sprite I believe.
As far as Triumph goes, the Triumph to have is actually the TR250 (or the TR5 in Britain).
It has the body of the TR4A (designed by Micholetti of Italy) and the same 2.5 litre straight six that the TR6 has.
The TR6 was actually designed by Karmen of West Germany believe it or not, but is based on the platform of the TR4A. The TR6 was manufactured from 68 till 76 with approximately 88,000 units produced in Coventry England.
The TR6 comes in two distinct varities. The so called chrome bumper (from 68 to 73) and the so called rubber bumper over-riders (from 74 to 76)
The engine in both cases is the 2.5 straight six with dual stromberg CD (Constant Depression) carbs. The earlier model has about 125 horsepower I believe stock and the later engine about 105 horsepower (detuned by reducing the compression and adding a less radical cam shaft.
The later engine is quite different from the earlier with a different head, manifolds, block, everything.
The later transmsision is also diffferent as is the interiors to the cars.
Your TR6 of choice is without a doubt (in my eyes) the 75.
It has a superior interior, better transmission, doesn't have an air pump (the 76 has an air pump to be avoided), and it has the instrumentation of the 76.
The engine can be easily modified to put out over 160 horsepower through the addition of a fast road 83 cam shaft available from Triumph Tune in England, and increasing the compression of the engine to 10:1 (stock is 7,75:1) by milling 180 thou (yes, that's right) from the head and porting and polishing.
I would stick to the stock exhaust system, and carbs for that matter. You can go and buy yourself a set of triple webers, but it's really quite over done at that point.
The transmission came with an optional electric overdrive by Laycock which should have been standard equipment. You definitely want to get one with overdrive.
This is one part that can not be bought currently.
If you are into modifying the TR6, the bible on TR6 engines is readily available being written by one "Kas Kastner". He is the God amoungst TR6 engine modifyers.
If you are looking for a TR6, one place to start would be the Toronto Triumph Club. They have a webside
http://www.torontotriumph.com/
Check out their classified ads.
Another thing to keep in mind is British Car Day held on the third Sunday in September. It's the biggest British car show in Canada with over a 1000 vehicles on display. You can really do some comparisons at this show.
What to watch for when buying a TR6
1. Rust. That British steel doesn't like winters.
Particularly susceptable are the inner and outer sills, and floor pans.
2. The frame.
Hit it with a screw driver to ensure that your screw driver doesn't poke right through it.
3. The frame is particularly prone at the points where the rear trailing arms bolt on. Be very careful here. What some wise guys do is weld an angle iron to it in an attempt to siffen the rotted out section. Nice try.
4. The differential mounts. Crazy design, watch for broken mounting bolts, only visible on a hoist when someone is in the car and engaging the clutch (with the brake on of course.) Have this checked for sure. Broken mounts mean the body has to come off of the frame to repair.
5. Clutch.
The borg and beck clutch is a piece of shit. Avoid at all costs. The Roadster Factory has several better alternatives. I would reccomend the new clutch by LUK (Part No. RFK747). A design weak spot in the clutch is the release bearing cross shaft. Stock it has a tapered pin through the release bearing fork and cross shaft. This pin is the achiles heel of the actuating system. It will shear off for sure. Look for movement in the clutch actuating mechanism that should not be there.
Contrary to what many believe, the electrical system on the TR6 has an undeserved bad reputation.
The electrical system is actually quite sound and only becomes a problem when people fuck with it. The electrical system is actually so simple the wiring diagram is one page and is quite easy to read and comes in the owners manual. One thing I would do is replace the factory 30 amp fuses with 10 amp fuses though. The one weak spot in the electrical system is the dash light rheostat. The slightest accidental short will blow the rheostat and they are expensive to replace.
The TR6 is a great little car, lots of fun to drive, loves country roads more so than 400 series highways.
They have their idiosyncracies, but it only makes the cars more interesting..
If you are looking for a TR6, one place to start would be the Toronto Triumph Club. They have a webside
http://www.torontotriumph.com/
Check out their classified ads.
Another thing to keep in mind is British Car Day held on the third Sunday in September. It's the biggest British car show in Canada with over a 1000 vehicles on display. You can really do some comparisons at this show.
What to watch for when buying a TR6
1. Rust. That British steel doesn't like winters.
Particularly susceptable are the inner and outer sills, and floor pans.
2. The frame.
Hit it with a screw driver to ensure that your screw driver doesn't poke right through it.
3. The frame is particularly prone at the points where the rear trailing arms bolt on. Be very careful here. What some wise guys do is weld an angle iron to it in an attempt to siffen the rotted out section. Nice try.
4. The differential mounts. Crazy design, watch for broken mounting bolts, only visible on a hoist when someone is in the car and engaging the clutch (with the brake on of course.) Have this checked for sure. Broken mounts mean the body has to come off of the frame to repair.
5. Clutch.
The borg and beck clutch is a piece of shit. Avoid at all costs. The Roadster Factory has several better alternatives. I would reccomend the new clutch by LUK (Part No. RFK747). A design weak spot in the clutch is the release bearing cross shaft. Stock it has a tapered pin through the release bearing fork and cross shaft. This pin is the achiles heel of the actuating system. It will shear off for sure. Look for movement in the clutch actuating mechanism that should not be there.
Contrary to what many believe, the electrical system on the TR6 has an undeserved bad reputation.
The electrical system is actually quite sound and only becomes a problem when people fuck with it. The electrical system is actually so simple the wiring diagram is one page and is quite easy to read and comes in the owners manual. One thing I would do is replace the factory 30 amp fuses with 10 amp fuses though. The one weak spot in the electrical system is the dash light rheostat. The slightest accidental short will blow the rheostat and they are expensive to replace.
The TR6 is a great little car, lots of fun to drive, loves country roads more so than 400 series highways.
They have their idiosyncracies, but it only makes the cars more interesting..
TR6
Well James T, I, for one, wouldn't pay 20k for a TR6, nice though they are.
The prices asked for collectable autos are seldom gotten, unless it is some sort of iconic or ultra-rare item. There are just too many cars chasing too few collectors. When you actually own the thing and have to sell it is when you find out the real value. The big question mark is whether the next generation after us will value these things as our generation did. I doubt it.
I'm glad parts are available, but if you can buy a Miata for $6K with no hassles, I suspect that puts a dent in the number of people who will pony up the same amount for a TR6.
Well James T, I, for one, wouldn't pay 20k for a TR6, nice though they are.
The prices asked for collectable autos are seldom gotten, unless it is some sort of iconic or ultra-rare item. There are just too many cars chasing too few collectors. When you actually own the thing and have to sell it is when you find out the real value. The big question mark is whether the next generation after us will value these things as our generation did. I doubt it.
I'm glad parts are available, but if you can buy a Miata for $6K with no hassles, I suspect that puts a dent in the number of people who will pony up the same amount for a TR6.
TR6
AHHHHHHHHHHhhhh the Good old TR6...................
*remembers the good all days of his long lost youth*
I owned a brown one in 1974 and wished I had never gotten rid of it *should have kicked the wife out instead* MLOL
AHHHHHHHHHHhhhh the Good old TR6...................
*remembers the good all days of his long lost youth*
I owned a brown one in 1974 and wished I had never gotten rid of it *should have kicked the wife out instead* MLOL
Re: TR6
Comparing a miata to a TR6 is kind of funny. I guess they are both convertables though. If that's solely what you are after then by all means, buy a miata yes, they can be had for a lot less.
Usually guys interested in a TR6 aren't interested in a miata. In fact, the word miata doesn't even enter the brain.
Doesn't matter what you are willing to pay. That's what the really mint ones are fetching.clipper said:
Comparing a miata to a TR6 is kind of funny. I guess they are both convertables though. If that's solely what you are after then by all means, buy a miata yes, they can be had for a lot less.
Usually guys interested in a TR6 aren't interested in a miata. In fact, the word miata doesn't even enter the brain.
Hey t-dot...
I own a 1954 MG TF 1500 - I'd say that you should certainly pick up a TR6 - they are tres cool - just a word of advice though...don't take them too far away from home, it can be a long push back!
lol
I own a 1954 MG TF 1500 - I'd say that you should certainly pick up a TR6 - they are tres cool - just a word of advice though...don't take them too far away from home, it can be a long push back!
lol
I had a TR6 for many years - I was stupid to sell it - I had another convert and at the time noplace to park a few cars. Parts are not that hard to find - the advent of the internet and lots of aftermarket sources have improved drastically.t_dot said:
Engines and drivetrain are really solid - it was the engine that was the dependable part - from the fire fighting systems that spawned this division (apparently).
Bodys and electrics were always the probelsm - although I really did not have any problems with electrics. I put fibreglass on the 3 corners, and soem metal on the floor - maybe not original - but it worked well. Flat rear deck could be weak as a result of spray from the wheels. Start with the frame, I eventually had to encase the box frame with new metal - so beware of that. I would suggest looking in areas, like Alberta or US that dont have salt issues - despite being a summer car - they always seemed to fare better.
Unless you are going for a really old MG - I would recommend the TR6 over any of the other little Brits - the midget, Spitfire and MBG etc. Mine was an extremely reliable car - I would drive it to Boston (well I was young) and never let me down ever.
Don't get me wrong, you can find a TR6 for much less than 20k.t_dot said:
Check the Toronto Triumph club's website for lots of TR6's in the range you may be looking for.
Unless you are on a racetrack where you are always moving, The S2000 is a really overrated car. Your face will be lobster red when a Cadillac Deville beats you across the stoplight.
I think you'd be dissappointed by the performance of a S2000. All the power is at the high end. You have to get it above 6000 rpm to get it moving. You will be making alot of noise and going nowhere for quite some time. It also means you have to drop the clutch at high rpms to get it moving, which is bad because the clutch isn't made for that. The S2000 is an image car.
The mustang is really hard to beat bang for the buck wise. Nothing like eight cylinders making the pipes ring. If you aren't interested in speed, pick up a Miata. If you are buying new, they even have a turbocharged one that has some power.
I think you'd be dissappointed by the performance of a S2000. All the power is at the high end. You have to get it above 6000 rpm to get it moving. You will be making alot of noise and going nowhere for quite some time. It also means you have to drop the clutch at high rpms to get it moving, which is bad because the clutch isn't made for that. The S2000 is an image car.
The mustang is really hard to beat bang for the buck wise. Nothing like eight cylinders making the pipes ring. If you aren't interested in speed, pick up a Miata. If you are buying new, they even have a turbocharged one that has some power.
